Vw 1.8T Cracked Head
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This listing is for a rebuilt Volkswagen 1.8 liter 20 valve dual overhead cam cylinder head. This head is found on VW Passat's, Golf's, Beetle's, Jetta's and Audi A6's and many other Volkswagen and Audi models. These heads come both turbo and non turbo. For other models see our store listings. This head is completely rebuilt. It has been pressure checked for cracks and resurfaced. Guides and seats have been replaced as needed. New VITON valve stem seals have been installed. All heads are given a valve job. All valves have been vacuum checked to ensure proper sealing.
Your head gasket serves as a seal between your engine block and cylinder head. It keeps the combustion gases in the combustion chamber while keeping the coolant in the water jacket. A blown head gasket will allow coolant to leak into the combustion chamber, or externally, or could allow combustion gases into the cooling passages.
Thanks for your question about your Cadillac. Blown head gaskets are not unusual in that car. You can use BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer (available here: -gasket-sealer-38386/) to seal your head gasket leak guaranteed!
You probably did not damage anything by pouring the antifreeze in as long as you poured it into your radiator or overflow tank. It could simply indicate that your engine coolant was really low, or it could indicate you have a bigger problem like a blown head gasket which could have happened when your car overheated and may be indicated by the white smoke from your exhaust. If there is nothing wrong with your water pump, this may be your problem.
Thank you for asking about your Chevy Malibu. Do you know if the heads were sent to a machine shop to have their surfaces smoothed Based on your description, it sounds like you may be getting combustion/exhaust gases blowing into the cooling system and creating pressure. We recommend applying 16 ounces of BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer. To give yourself the best overall chance of BlueDevil working successfully you should remove the spark plug from the cylinder with the leak; this will be the spark plug from the cylinder with the low compression reading. If you are not sure which one that is, you may pull all of the spark plugs and will notice one will have a white-crystal-like substance on it and/or may look dirty; this is the plug you should pull. Leave that plug out for the 50 minute idle in order to relieve the pressure from building up to allow the product to seal properly.
As for the leaking coolant, since you only have 1 indication of a blown head gasket, we would recommend do a few other checks for leaking coolant like a cracked radiator or bad radiator hose. Until you find the source of the leaks or have the chance to the mechanic look at the engine make sure to keep the oil and coolant topped up.
I have an 05 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 4.7 liter engine it has white smoke coming out of the exhaust but no oil milky residue in the oil it seems like it might be just in the water jacket will your product work for this thank you I have every symptoms of a blown head gasket accept water in the oil
I have a 95 Dodge 1500 pickup with a 5.9; I have bubbling in the radiator with a yellow/brown foam (emulsified oil), low compression and plug fouling in #8 cyl, but I have no indication of water in the oil pan. I am assuming I have an exhaust and oil leak into the cooling system from a blown head gasket; my question is will the head gasket sealer work when the 45 psi oil is leaking into the 16 psi coolant
Thanks for your question about your Pontiac G6. Usually, that much white smoke from your tailpipe indicates a blown head gasket. If that is the case you would also notice your coolant level dropping significantly along with bubbles in your radiator. That white smoke would smell sweet. If you do have a blown head gasket, use BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer (available here: -gasket-sealer-38386/) to seal the leak without replacing your whole engine.
I have a Mitsubishi sedan model 1993 and I forgot to put water on radiator and the temp did go high. We drove the car about half kilometer without putting water. Now the radiator has a little hole. My nephew tried to drive it again yesterday and still the temperature gauge goes high. Is it possible that the head gasket was broken
Thank you for asking about your Mitsubishi. Based on your description, it is very possible that the vehicle overheated and it blew the head gaskets. We recommend using the BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer, found here on our website: -gasket-sealer-38386/ . As long as the vehicle will maintain idle for 50 minutes, and you are not losing more than about a quart of water/coolant during that 50 minutes, you would be a great candidate for the product.
Hey I have a 1991 subaru legacy wagon. Iv had a leck coming from under engine. My radiator water level keeps dropping iv put radiator dtop leck thru and its still lecking water level still goes down. Car has started to over heat but not to high tho goes up n down. The other day tho it has been make weird nosie. Can a blown head gasket make a weird nosie Im not sure if it is a blown head as no milky stuff in oil or oil cap but does bubble a bit when filling up radiator. So my question is can a blown head start making
The symptoms you have described are common when a vehicle has a blown head gasket. We recommend using BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer ( -gasket-sealer-38386/) to stop any coolant loss and alleviate the symptoms. Be sure to follow all of the directions printed on the product label.
We have a 1998 Chevy Lumina and it has normally run good. I had the oil changed recently and shortly after when I was driving it, the temperature light went up into the high range. I took it right to the station to have them check it out. They replaced the water pump and then told me the head gasket is blown. No visible leaking only symptom was the high temperature gauge. We decided due to age of vehicle, high mileage, and expense of replacing the head gasket to take it off the rode. My husband drove it home (about 6 miles) and the temperature gauge stayed down (less than half on gauge) while he drove it home. He let it sit and idle for about 45 minutes in our driveway tonight and the temperature gauge stayed down where it normally does. Wondering if we should get a second opinion on the blown head gasket and whether we could continue to drive it short distances just in our area. Thank you. MG
Yes it is possible to have a cracked engine block reliably repaired by a machinist or engine/metal specialist. It would require removal, complete disassembly down to the bare engine block, and then transport and wait time for the repair. Not to mention the dollar cost. The cost to repair the block once at the appropriate place is likely to be several hundred dollars.
I bought another year of service from a 1947 Pontiac that had a cracked block using K & W seal. In that engine the valves were in the block and the block had cracked around a valve seat. I drove the car another year after using the K & W seal and after I sold it, it was on the streets two years later.
Reparing a cracked block is only economically feasable for bringing a Deusenberg or Cord back to life. I have seen a farm equipment repair shop heat an old block in a forge and weld a crack. It was a huge undertaking and after welding the block required re-machining all critical dimensions and the weld could not be guaranteed.
For the OP, cracked blocks are nothing new; have been an occasional problem as long as there have been cast iron blocks. Early Ford flathead V8 engines (1932 to 1953) sometimes had this while Chevrolet stove bolt 6 engines did not. Otherwise the Ford V8 was a more durable engine. Even aluminum is not exempt as VW IDI diesels mostly have cracked heads between the valves however harmless.
The most common amongst them is the mixing of your oil and coolant. If you have had a water pump or thermostat fail, and your car overheated, there is a very good chance you are going to be looking at performing this job, as the extreme temperatures associated with an over heated engine can damage both the head and its gasket.
Replacing your head gasket might be the biggest job you will attempt on your car short of rebuilding the entire engine. It is not a quick or easy job, but can be done by a DIY mechanic if you take your time, have the right tools and follow the instructions. This job can take a few days for a novice, so make sure you have the car in a secure and weather safe area before you start. You are going to be opening up the engine and may even be sending the head out for repairs, so you don't want to be working outside when it starts to rain.
If the head gasket has failed and you are going to all the trouble to replace it you really should have the head sent out to have it cleaned and inspected. Aluminum heads have a tendency to warp and if your head has warped putting a new gasket on a warped head will not solve any problems and just cause the head gasket to fail again.
There are several steps that need to be preformed on other parts of the car before you begin removing the cylinder head. We have covered all of these in separate articles so I am not going to include them here, as this will be a long enough project as it is. Please refer to all the prep work articles contained here on Pelican Parts.
With all of this done you are going to start removing things from the motor. We are going to remove the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds on. I left the throttle body on but disconnected the wiring harness and intake tube from it. If you want to remove the throttle body completely please see our article on cleaning your throttle body. We will be disconnecting the exhaust manifold at the turbo and the turbo will be staying with the car.
Next remove the vacuum lines from the top of the intake manifold, and the two from underneath. There is another vacuum line underneath the intake but I could not reach it and removed it once I had the head lifted. If you can reach it remove it now. 59ce067264
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